Journey to the Country of Gods

The enormous significance of Ashtapadji to Jains has been forgotten in modern times. It was here that our first tirthankar Rishabhdev gave deshna, and gave diksha to his 98 sons. It was here that he attained nirvana. It was here that his son, Bharat Chakravarti built  Sinhnishdaprasad – a precinct for the pursuit of spirituality. And, it was here on Ashtapadji that his grandson, Marichi, received discourse about his spiritual decline that several births later led to his elevation as Lord Mahavir.

Mount Kailash In All Its Glory

In fact, when Gautamswami enquired of Bhagwan that all other disciples were being enlightened and he was not, Bhagwan advised him to go on pilgrimage to Ashtapadji and he would be assured of enlightenment in his present life.

Both the Jain Agams and the scriptures refer to   Ashtapadji and Maansarovar, the highest lake in the world that never freezes, with considerable reverence.

The changing landscape through the millennia that have passed, the remote location, the difficult and often hazardous access and finally international borders have kept Jains away from their principal tirth for many centuries.

In 2009, Param Pujya Bhaishree, the spiritual guide and leader of the Raj Saubhag Satsang Mandal, attended the inauguration   of a model of Ashtapadji in New Yorks Jinalay at Queens. This included pratmajis of the 24 tirththankars and Guru Gautamswami instructing 1500 hermits how to ascend Ashtapadji. Having heard the history of Ashtapadji was greatly inspired to undertake the pilgrimage there and had quietly been planning for it since then.

In August 2011, he led a party of 92 of his followers on this magnificent Kailash Maansarovar yatra. It was a group of mixed abilities, with ages ranging from 20 to almost 80 however all were armed with the absolute determination to follow their Guru on this quest., It is known that the original Ashtapadji was in the vicinity of Mount Kailash  and presently there is a smaller mountain next to Kailash named Ashtapadji.

This was a historic Yatra:

Firstly it was for the first time in recorded history that such a large contingent of Jains under the leadership of their Guru had undertaken such a Yatra. The group had reached Maansarovar at an altitude of 4.750m late in the evening.    The strain of a day-long ride melted away at the first sight of the serene Maansarovar and the breath-taking Kailash. The mountain shone pure and white, ethereal and enchanting, towering and yet benign.

Secondly, an Ashtaprakari puja with idols of Jain Tirthankars that took place next morning on the shores of Maansarovar, at an altitude of 4,750m followed by a ceremonial veneration of Ashtapadji Tirth had never been done previously .

This puja was conducted with five Jain idols – two of Lord Rishabhdev and one each of Lords Munisuvrat, Parsavanath, and Mahavir in a small marquee. The radiant idols were brought to the site amid rousing cheer and singing and installed by P.P. Bhaishree to the accompaniment of bhakti.  All members participated enthusiastically in each of the pujas read by Br. Vikrambhai – jal puja, chandan puja, pushp puja, dhoop puja, deep puja, akshat puja, phal puja and naivaidya puja. This was followed by aarti and mangal divo

Procession to the Puja Site

The puja was part of a three-day Aradhna Shibir which included meditation sessions and swadhyays on the significance of Ashtapadji.  Jain scriptures give pride of place to Ashtapadji. Suyagdang Sutra confirms that Lord Rishabhdev gave deshna here. Uttaraadhyayan Sutra calls Ashtapadji the pinnacle of all Jain tirths. Lord Mahavir has reiterated in Mahavir Chariyam that the yatra to Ashtapadji, if done with atmashakti, brings one liberation.

Puja In Progress

Two books in particular were referred to by Param Pujya Bhaishree in his swadhyays,  ‘Ashtapad Tirth ni Bhavyatra’ and ‘Rishabh Panchashika’ by Muni Hitvardhanvijayji both of which include vivid description of Ashtapadji in Bhagwan’s times and give references to Agams.

Maansarovar with Vivid Colours

We were at this  highest lake in the world, soaking in the spiritual vibrations of a highly revered mountain and offering our respects to Lord Rishabhdev with abiding devotion and faith. The grandeur and greatness of Ashtapadji was spiritually empowering, inspiring us to make offerings through a puja not performed for many a century.

After the Puja on Ashtapadji

Param Pujya Bhaishree then led a group of 68 followers on a three day parikrama (circumbulation) of Mt Kailash taking them up to altitudes of 6000m plus. In this arduous journey, all kinds of weathers were encountered from blizzards to hail storms to scorching hot sun and blinding rain. However, everyone returned safely, fortified by their faith and a strengthened devotion.

Pursuing spiritual practices in a conducive environment is easy. At Maansarovar, climatic changes and acclimatisation issues can make things difficult. These  problems, however, were easily overpowered by the magnetic aura of the place and the grace of our guru. All we had to do was drop our resistance and to let the atmosphere seep into our being. Soon, the gusty winds, chilly nights or low oxygen levels were not an obstacle for us.

P. P Bhaishree’s gentle presence belies his overwhelming strength which in turn made it feasible for us to enrich our spiritual moorings and to not be affected by the physical reality of our surroundings.

The external discomforts experienced at high altitudes are in fact a reality check, testing our readiness as sadhaks. As P.P Bhaishree said pertinently, the natural bounty in full evidence around us is a reflection of the wonder and joy that is within us and that is all that really matters.

We were filled with awe, at being part of this historic happening, wonder,  at being able to withstand the hostile weather without a hurdle, happiness, at the energy that seemed to possess our spirits and gratitude, for the grace that flowed from P.P. Bhaishree and the divine spirits that enveloped the place.

The spell cast by nature in the luxuriant realms of Kailash Mansarovar in Tibet endures. It was indeed a journey to the abode of the gods and a dip into the divinity of our souls enabled by our benefactor, P. P Bhaishree. In his loving care and sanctum, we nurse our spiritual dreams knowing that he enables us to understand what is truly ours

This article is being published in the earnest hope that other Jain groups will be inspired to go on a pilgrimage to this majestic tirth and  revive the significance it held during Bhagwan Mahavir’s time.  Further details of the Yatra at www.rajsaubhag.org